Key points:

• How oil pulling differs from double oil cleansing.
• The downside of massaging your face with oil.
• Step-by-step oil pulling for deep cleansing skin.

Online videos demonstrating the before and after of oil pulling skin are impressive, but there are a few things you need to know. Especially if you’re going to use Vitamin C oil to unclog your pores. Using the wrong type of oil increases post-treatment acne, and massaging oil into your skin at the wrong stage of your skincare routine increases irritation. Also, this pore refining method isn’t right for everyone.

DOUBLE CLEANSING VS. OIL PULLING

DOUBLE CLEANSING

Double cleansing grew in popularity as long-wear makeup, waterproof makeup, and the trend of layering primers under and finishing products over makeup rose in popularity. While these formulations stay on all day, they’re not easily removed. The first cleanse removes most makeup and skincare products, and the second cleanse removes remaining makeup and penetrates your pores. In the morning, all you need to wash away is last night’s skincare products, so you only need to cleanse once.

Unlike many social media influencers, I don’t suggest double cleansing with olive oil. Yes, oil dissolves eye makeup and long-wear formulas, but many oils dry your skin and clog your pores.

HOW I DOUBLE CLEANSE

My philosophy is that every step of your skincare routine should nourish and support skin health. Instead of using oil, I start with a cleanser from my signature skincare collection,  Scrub Away the Day. This cleanser contains glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and lactic acid to penetrate pores and gently exfoliate and refine your skin. The Jojoba beads within add to the gentle exfoliation and provide just enough oil to dissolve your makeup. However, this cleanser should not be used on or around your eyes. For your second cleanse, I suggest  Just Say Ahh for your face and eyes. Both cleansers rinse clean and hydrate, and balance your skin.

FACIAL OIL PULLING

The more popular type of oil pulling is an  ayurvedic practice of swishing oil around in your mouth, but that’s not what this skincare trend is about. Oil pulling your face is the process of cleansing your skin, then massaging oil on your face for 5 to 30 minutes. This extended cleanse pulls the built-up gunk out of your pores.

WHAT IS THE GUNK IN YOUR PORES?

Your skin produces sebum to self-lubricate the upper acid mantle layer. This natural oil gradually releases throughout the day, traveling from your pores up your hair follicles to the top layer of your skin. When your pores become clogged, the sebum buildup creates a visible plug or subcutaneous filament that enlarges your pores. This gunk is often mistaken for blackheads, but sometimes filaments are lighter in color. Oil attracts oil, so an extended oil massage pulls this buildup out of your pores.

THE DOWNSIDE OF MASSAGING YOUR FACE WITH OIL

What time-lapsed TikTok and YouTube videos often skip are the potential downsides of using oil for an extended facial massage.

• Order is Everything: Most videos focus on the massage and results, but not on what order to apply your oil. If you exfoliate before your massage or don’t cleanse before and after, your skin may become highly reactive. Also, hold off on using skincare devices for at least 2 days after, longer if your skin reacts.

• Irritation: Using the wrong oil may irritate your skin. As plugs release, you should wipe them away, as they’re abrasive and can irritate your skin.

• Increased Acne: If you’re acne-prone and don’t use noncomedogenic oil, you’ll pull the plugs, but push oil into your pores. This reclogs your pores, which may lead to a rapid acne flare-up. If you’re not acne-prone and use a noncomedogenic oil, expect to break out.

THE BEST OIL FOR AT-HOME OIL PULL

Most skincare influencers use olive oil or castor oil, but I suggest using noncomedogenic oil, such as jojoba or grapeseed oil-based products. If you have a preferred skincare oil, consider the actives beyond the oil. Many actives are gentle with daily application but cause reactivity during an extended massage. 

OIL PULLING WITH VITAMIN C OIL

Most Vitamin C facial oils are way too harsh for oil pulling skin. This is because most are formulated with ascorbic acid. Ascorbic acid is the type of Vitamin C we’re most familiar with, but when applied topically at too high of a concentration, it’s too harsh for many. So, I suggest oils formulated from tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, like the CBE Botanicals Vitamin C Facial Oil. This premium source of Vitamin C is ultra-gentle and won’t irritate most.

7 STEP FACE OIL PULLING WITH VITAMIN C OIL

The steps below remove pore-enlarging plugs from your skin. Complete an oil pull massage once a week as a deep cleanse. The more filaments in your skin, the longer it will take to release them all. Once all plugs are released, continue with a monthly massage or transition to a  pore-refining skincare routine.

STEP 1: FIRST CLEANSE

Cleanse with a gentle cleanser, such as  Just Say Ahh. This isn’t the time for acid-based or exfoliating cleansers.

STEP 2: VITAMIN C OIL

Apply a generous amount of tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate-based  Vitamin C Oil to your face, and gently massage in a circular motion for up to 30 minutes. Focus more on areas with visible plugs, such as your nose, forehead, and chin. It may take 5 to 7 minutes before build up begins to release. Wipe plugs away as they release so that they don’t exfoliate your skin.

STEP 3: SECOND CLEANSE

Once oil pulling is complete, you need to dissolve the oil. Rinse your face first, then massage Just Say Ahh on, and let it sit for 2 minutes to dissolve oil. If needed, cleanse once more with the same gentle cleanser.

STEP 4: EXTRACTION MASK

To ensure that every bit of oil is extracted from your pores, and to encourage the release of remaining filaments, apply a clay mask o r Volcanic Ash Mask to your face.

STEP 5: SERUM

Now that your pores are clear, actives can penetrate deeper into your skin. So, apply a calming, nourishing, and hydrating serum such as  4D Quench.

STEP 6: MOISTURIZE

Now you want to layer on a creamy moisturizer that really gets into the skin and plumps everything up to minimize enlarged pores. Even though you’ve released the plugs, it will take some time for your pores to shrink up. Now is the ideal time for the latest moisturizer from my signature skincare collection,  Renew + Hydrate. This luxurious cream deeply hydrates and replenishes fragile skin, while boosting firmness and smoothing crepey areas. Star actives include Squalene, Swiss Apple Stem Cell Extract, a Bioengineered Anti-Aging Complex, and an advanced Duo of Peptides.

STEP 7: SPF

If you complete your oil pulling facial in the evening, you’re all set. If the sun is still out, layer broad-spectrum SPF protection on top

USING VITAMIN C OIL BEYOND DEEP CLEANSING

To get the most from your Vitamin C oil, apply it as the last step in your PM skincare routine. I only apply facial oils in the evening, as they degrade SPF protection. Wait a few minutes for your moisturizer to sink in, then add a light layer of Vitamin C oil on top. This locks in moisture, while delivering the brightening benefits we all crave as our skin matures. If you sleep on your side or stomach, use a silk pillowcase, as it won’t absorb your skincare products.

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Frequently Asked Questions

Who shouldn’t oil pull their skin?

If your skin is sensitive, inflamed, damaged, or acne-prone, use a gentle cleansing method instead of oil pulling.

Is an oil pulling facial the only way to unclog my pores?

No, it’s not. It’s fast and effective, but I suggest keeping your pores clear by adding AHA and BHA products to your daily routine.

How often should you deep cleanse your face with oil pulling?

Regardless of the method, I suggest deep cleansing once a week. Maybe alternate your deep cleansing methods every other week so that you don’t fall behind on deep exfoliation. Especially if your skin is mature.

What oil should I use to oil pull if my skin is reactive to Vitamin C?

If your skin is reactive to Vitamin C, it’s likely because you used an ascorbic acid-based product. CBE’s Vitamin C Oil is tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate-based, providing the brightening benefits without irritation. However, you can use grapeseed or jojoba oil. I don’t suggest olive oil, castor oil, or other oils that clog pores or dry out your skin.