The Right Way to Layer Your Skincare for Maximum Results

Layering skincare products isn't rocket science, but there are a few key mistakes to avoid to maximize effectiveness.

Key Takeaways

The general rule is to apply products from thinnest to thickest consistency.
Facial oils are typically applied last at night, as they create an occlusive barrier.
Wait for each product to absorb before applying the next.
Encapsulated retinol can be applied last at night because it can travel through the other products you have already applied.

Hey everyone, Christine Byer here! As a licensed master esthetician with over two decades of experience, I've seen a lot of confusion around layering skincare products. It's a topic that comes up constantly with my clients. Over the years, I've helped countless people unravel the mystery of layering everything from Retin-A to facial oils, gels, creams, essences/ ampoules, and sunscreen. It doesn't have to be complicated, but a few key things can make or break your routine. I want to help you avoid those mistakes, so let's dive in!

The Golden Rule: Thinnest to Thickest

The most important thing to remember is to layer your products from thinnest to thickest in consistency. This allows each product to absorb properly into your skin without being blocked by heavier products. Think of it like this, if you put a big fat molecule on your face before the thin one, that big fat molecule will block the thin one from absorbing. If you put an occlusive product on first, like a very creamy cleanser, and then try to apply a water-like serum, it may not absorb at all.

The Exceptions

Okay, so we know the general rule, but what about those tricky products like facial oils, Retin-A, and alpha hydroxy acids? Here are a few exceptions to keep in mind:

Facial Oils: Facial oils are always applied last in your nighttime routine. They are occlusive and create a barrier that blocks other products from absorbing. They are great for extra nourishing but sunscreen will not sit well on top of an oil.
Retin-A/Retinol: With Retin-A, always follow the manufacturer's instructions. Once it has absorbed, you can apply serums, then moisturizer if it’s a gel. If it’s a cream, it can get tricky, but generally waiting a half hour between products allows serums to absorb fine. For encapsulated retinol, the great news is it can be applied last at night.
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): I like to double cleanse, apply the acid, and wait five minutes before applying any serums. If you apply a serum right after an acid, it will dilute the acid and make it less effective.
Polyhydroxy Acids (PHAs): Like AHAs, you want to give PHAs time to do their thing.
Copper Peptides: Avoid using copper peptides right next to ascorbic acid (vitamin C) because the pH of the two products can cancel each other out. It is better to use one in the day and one at night.

The Importance of Waiting

Another crucial factor in effective layering is time. You don't want to rush through your routine! I recommend waiting for each product to absorb and dry down before applying the next. This will help your products penetrate better and also reduce any stickiness. Usually, a serum will absorb in about 60 seconds.

An Example Routine

Let's talk about my line of skincare products and how to use them in a layering routine:

Double Cleanse: Always start with a double cleanse, the first pass removes makeup, dirt and grime, the second cleans debris from the pores. This ensures you are starting with a clean canvas. Avoid super creamy cleansers that leave a film of oil on the skin. If you need to use a creamy cleanser, follow it with a foaming cleanser.
Ampoule/Essence: After cleansing, you can use an ampoule or essence to hydrate and nourish the skin.
Water-Like Serums: Next, apply your most potent water-like serums. For example, my NeoGenesis Booster or other serums with hyaluronic acid, which draws moisture to the skin. The 4D Quench is a great product because it is made of four different types of hyaluronic acid and will pull anything you put on top of it deeper into your skin.
Acids: Then you can apply an acid such as my Revive Exfoliating Serum, which contains a blend of five different fruit acids. Wait about 5 minutes to let it do its work.
Non-Acid Brighteners: Next apply non-acid brighteners like my Brighten the Day serum.
Gel-Like Serums: After this, if you have a gel-like serum, apply it next. For example, my Triple C serum.
Eye Cream: Don't forget the delicate eye area.
Moisturizer: Then comes your moisturizer. I love my Fresh Face Whip; it's a clean and light moisturizer.
Sunscreen: In the morning, finish with sunscreen.
Facial Oil: If using an oil, apply it last at night.
Encapsulated Retinol: If using an encapsulated retinol, you can apply it last at night, or after serums

Layering with Devices

If you like to use devices like LED or microcurrent, there are a few extra things to keep in mind:

LED: When using LED, make sure the products you use underneath do not contain retinol, acids, or high levels of ascorbic acid (vitamin C). A good option is my Brighten the Day serum. You can also use my Hydrate and Conduct gel because it is clear and non-acidic and will help the light penetrate.

Microcurrent: When using microcurrent, you can layer your favorite serums underneath a conductive gel. I love using my Hydrate and Conduct with microcurrent, and I often cocktail other serums underneath it, like the 4D Quench and even my Vitamin C serum.

A Note About Retinol

Retinol can be a tricky ingredient, and it is not for everyone. It's important to find a routine that works for you, and encapsulated retinol can be particularly useful because you can layer it on at any point. You may want to skip oil the day you do your retinol, or if you do use oil make sure it is the very last step of your routine.

Avoid Over-Exfoliating

Be careful not to over-exfoliate by blending too many acids at once. You can use one acid in the morning and one at night, but don’t use them all at the same time.

Shop My Favorite Picks

Here are a few of the products, which you can find on my website:

We Love to Help!

If you have a product question, please contact us at support@christinebyeresthetics.com. We are happy to help!

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What if I am using a very creamy cleanser? A: Be careful that a very creamy cleanser does not leave a film on the skin, which will prevent absorption of products. Use a foaming cleanser after it if you must use a creamy cleanser.

Q: Do I always have to wait between steps? A: Yes, it’s important to let each product absorb before applying the next. This ensures your skin is able to benefit fully from each product and also will reduce any stickiness.

Q: Can I use facial oils during the day? A: It is better to apply facial oils at night because they can degrade sunscreen.

Q: Can I use devices like LED or microcurrent with any products? A: No, it’s important to avoid using retinol, acids or high levels of ascorbic acid under LED. With microcurrent, you can layer your favorite serums under a conductive gel.

Q: What if my skin is sensitive? A: It's essential to listen to your skin. If you experience irritation, reduce the frequency of use or contact a skincare professional. You can also use a very basic conductive gel if you do not want to use nourishing serums.

Q: Can I mix copper peptides and vitamin C? A: It's best to avoid using them at the same time, use them at different times of the day to maximize their effectiveness.

There you have it! Layering your skincare like a pro is all about understanding the products you use, applying them in the right order and giving them the time they need to work. If you have more questions, don’t hesitate to reach out.