The Truth About Moisturizer

February 23, 2022

You'll read that moisturizer is one of the foundations of an effective skin care regimen for dry, older skin. That's only PART of the truth. The truth is anyone with skin needs a good moisturizer.

The objective of using a moisturizer is to maintain skin's outer layer of keratin. We’ll get to what to look for in a moisturizer but first let’s address what some are thinking, why even oily skin needs a moisturizer.

People often mistake skin oil for skin hydration. Skin oil is the waxy substance, called sebum, that is secreted by the sebaceous glands to help maintain the barrier function of the skin. Although the excessive build-up of sebum can lead to oily skin and acne, it doesn't mean the skin is well-hydrated. 

Hydration and oil are not the same thing.

There are many moisturizers created specifically for oily skin. They will be light and fast absorbing. CBE Botanicals Fresh Face Whip or NeoGenesis Light Moisturizer are both ideal choices.  

Now let’s break down what a good moisturizer looks like. Please keep in mind it takes the following 3 components in the right combination and percentages to be effective. Also, there is no one-size-fits all moisturizer. You will have to experiment to find the one(s) that work for YOUR skin.

A good moisturizer will seal in moisture by forming a water-tight film on the skin. This is considered an occlusive effect. However, occlusive agents like petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, paraffin, and squalene are usually quite greasy on their own so they are combined with other ingredients.

Your moisturizer should keep the skin moist by drawing water from the dermis to the outermost epidermis. This happens with humectants. These include ingredients like glycerin, sodium lactate, ammonium lactate, hyaluronic acid, sorbitol, urea, and alpha hydroxy acids, to name a few, all of which are also suitable for people with oily skin.

And finally, it will smooth skin by filling spaces between flakes in the stratum corneum by containing emollients. Emollients are either oil or wax based. There are some emollients that are less greasy (like ceramides) and others that are greasier (like stearic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid, and fatty alcohols).

Look for moisturizers that they won't clog pores and cause comedones (blackheads or whiteheads).

On the other hand, steer clear of moisturizers containing high levels of mineral oil, cocoa butter, high levels of petrolatum, or petroleum, as well as skin products with fragrances that can irritate the skin.

MYTH BUSTER! Once upon a time petroleum jelly was thought to be an effective moisturizer but what they don't tell you is, it will make your face look and feel greasy. Not pretty! I don't recommend it.

And the truth is every moisturizer starts with a foundation of water (aqua)! The reason this is necessary is moisturizer needs to be able to penetrate the skin. You don't want it to just sit on top of the skin. Creams and lotions that contain some water are a better choice for a DAILY facial moisturizer.

Other ingredients you'll find in moisturizer are cetyl alcohol, palmitic acid, and dimethicone. These give moisturizers a creamy, velvety, or translucent look and feel, and to help maintain the moisture that keeps skin soft and smooth.

There you have it. Every skin type and anyone with skin should be using a moisturizer. There isn't a one-size-fits all moisturizer. You will have to experiment to find those that work for you. Remember, when the seasons change, your moisturizer may need to be adjusted too!

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