Key points:
- The core concepts of skin longevity and how longevity differs from anti-aging.
- Esthetician-approved skincare ingredients for resilience and regeneration.
- Pro-grade products you can use to heal and restore your skin.
The skincare industry has entered an exciting era of pro-aging that focuses more on proactive skin resilience and regeneration than a reactive response to fine lines and wrinkles. I’m seeing more transition away from harsh actives and treatments that deliver initial results, but inflame, damage, and harden skin over time. As a Master Esthetician, turning to scientifically proven, gentle, and effective treatments has always been my approach. Below are the ingredients I prioritize for both anti-aging and skin longevity.
HOW SKIN LONGEVITY DIFFERS FROM ANTI-AGING
BEYOND EFFICACY
Efficacy isn’t enough, as I don’t support the “no pain, no gain” approach to skincare. I only use gentle formulations that support skin health, without causing irritation or inflammation. Products must absorb into the deep layers of your skin, and they must be formulated with ingredients your skin recognizes. My preferred actives are premium, concentrated, and scientifically proven to deliver results.
ANTI-INFLAMMATORY
Lasers, peels, IPL, and prolonged retinol use lead to chronic inflammation referred to as “inflammaging”. You gain the desired results, but at the price of overall accelerated aging. My approach heals, hydrates, and nourishes, delivering results without inflaming the skin. For clients who continue to explore harsher treatments, I understand and advise on how to restore skin post-treatment.
BARRIER-FIRST
The epidermis is the skin’s first line of defense. Improper device use, layering premium actives incorrectly, and harsh weather, anti-aging treatments, and skincare devices break down your epidermis. Ceramide production also declines in perimenopause, weakening your lipid layer and increasing transepidermal water loss. Hydrating, restorative, and protective products maintain this barrier and stimulate lipid replacement and repair.
REGENERATIVE
Skin longevity is a proactive approach that focuses heavily on cellular skin rejuvenation, collagen banking, and skin quality. The regenerative actives I use address multiple factors that age your skin. From formulations that thicken thinning skin to those that support cellular turnover and repair, and collagen-boosting formulations that rebuild and strengthen the extracellular matrix underneath the skin.
TARGETED TREATMENTS
The actives below are multi-tasking, but they don’t replace the need for targeted skincare treatments. I suggest targeted actives for proactive and reactive skin rejuvenation. Cycle reparative actives every 90 days as a proactive approach to slowing down the most common signs of visible aging, including fine lines, wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, and laxity. Reactive rejuvenation targets your skin type, local climate, lifestyle, and evolving skin conditions.
THE SKINCARE INGREDIENTS I’M MOST EXCITED ABOUT AS AN ESTHETICIAN
1. NEXT-GENERATION PEPTIDES
Peptides are having a moment in skincare. These power-packed protein molecules prevent and reduce everything from lines and wrinkles to acne, eczema, and dermatitis. It’s a common misconception that peptides must be injected to be effective. The peptide-infused formulations I utilize have delivery systems that absorb into the deep skin layers.
ESTHETICIAN-APPROVED PEPTIDE MATRIXYL 3000®
Matrixyl 3000® is a powerful peptide and key active in CBE Botanicals Eye + Neck Lift Cream and CBE Botanicals Renew + Hydrate Multi-Action Moisturizer. I’ve paired it with antioxidants, extracts, and acids that support skincare longevity. Many of my clients use these products as a Botox alternative to smooth, lift, and firm their brow.
When applied 2 times a day for 2 months, the Matrixyl 3000® alone is scientifically proven to achieve up to:
- 14.4% reduction in roughness
- 16.6% lifting effect
- 44.9% deep wrinkle reduction
2. ENCAPSULATED RETINOL
Although I’m not an advocate of long-term prescription retinol use, I’m not anti-retinol. I’m pro encapsulated retinol and proper use. This restorative form of vitamin A is highly effective at optimizing cellular turnover to reduce fine lines and pigmentation of any kind. That said, not all retinol is created equally. Encapsulated formulations have a carrier system that rapidly delivers actives to the deep layers of the skin. Most formulations aren’t encapsulated, so the actives sit on top of the skin, causing redness and sensitivity. Over time, unencapsulated formulations break down the skin barrier.
ESTHETICIAN-APPROVED RETINOL
I’ve formulated my Sleep On It Serum with encapsulated retinol. Apply 3 times a week, only in the evenings, and never layered over or under acids. This formulation is gentle enough for most with sensitive skin. Skin will redden after application, but shouldn’t feel sensitized or inflamed, and the redness will fade overnight.
3. CERAMIDE-BOOSTING NIACINAMIDE
I consider niacinamide (vitamin B3) to be one of the unsung heroes of the skincare world. It’s often a secondary active, but it packs a serious punch. At the top of this list is stimulating ceramide production. Ceramides are key to maintaining barrier function and moisture retention, both of which are crucial for incorporating longevity in your skincare routine. In addition to signaling ceramide production, niacinamide calms inflammation, helps fade dark spots, refines pores, and increases hydration.
ESTHETICIAN-APPROVED NIACINAMIDE
Many of the products on my treatment bar and in my inventory contain niacinamide, including the Sleep on It Serum mentioned above. For mature skin, I suggest the high-performing CaviPLLA Advanced Volumizing Serum, which contains caviar extract and Poly-L-Lactic Acid (PLLA).
4. EXOSOMES AKA. TOPICAL STEM CELLS
I get so excited when I talk about exosome therapy, as exosomes are part of the growing generation of medical-grade skincare. Exosomes work like a dream to promote advanced tissue repair and regeneration. They’re tiny molecules that include lipids, peptides, copper peptides, stem cells, and everything cells need to heal your skin. They also increase the dermal density of thinning skin.
ESTHETICIAN-APPROVED EXOSOMES
Most topical exosomes and stem cell therapies can’t penetrate the skin, or they don’t contain live stem cells. The only injection-free topical product I’ve found that works are products from the NeoGenesis skincare line. This revolutionary brand is led by Dr. Greg McQuire, a pioneer in stem cell research with over 30 years of industry experience. Their patented S²RM® technology is so effective that it’s oncology-approved for radiation burns.
5. SALMON SPERM
Polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN), aka. salmon sperm or salmon DNA, is another medical-grade skincare active that supports preventative skin regeneration. It’s scientifically proven to heal and restore skin proactively or reactively. I even use it to spot-treat psoriasis on my knees and elbows. PDRN is a bit controversial. It’s derived from salmon sperm and can be harvested repeatedly without killing salmon. So, it’s cruelty-free, but not vegan. Once harvested, the DNA goes through a rigorous medical-grade purification and sterilization process.
ESTHETICIAN-APPROVED SALMON SPERM
Dr. Esthé Rejuvenating PDRN Ampoule is my go-to salmon sperm ampoule. Ampoules are super serums that you can layer or wear as both your serum and moisturizer. I cycle this formulation year-round. In the summer, I cleanse, apply this serum, and finish with SPF. In the winter, it locks in moisture and creates a secondary skin barrier.
The proprietary coil polymer network creates an invisible mesh that pushes actives deeper into your skin. Just 1 application increases skin hydration by up to 10 points! The elastic-like formula creates a smoothing film that plumps up skin and fills out wrinkles, while doubling as a protective barrier and glossy skin finish.
6. TARGETED SERUMS AND AMPOULES
Serums and ampoules are my top pick for addressing seasonal and individual skin conditions, while taking a proactive approach to cellular skin rejuvenation. For best results, I suggest a combination of product cycling and skin flooding.
- Cycling actives weekly, monthly, or quarterly is key to longevity. For example, cycling topical acids and exfoliators to optimize cellular turnover. Or cycling in an ultra-hydrating ampoule during the winter. Or cycling a reparative treatment for 90 days after harsh skincare treatments.
- Skin flooding is the process of layering one serum underneath two or more serums or ampoules. For example, layering a skin brightening serum under a reparative ampoule. Or layering a regenerative serum underneath an ultra-hydrating ampoule. Or layering a targeted ampoule underneath a moisturizer that creates a secondary skin barrier.
LET’S DISCUSS HOW ELSE TO TAILOR YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE
Now that you understand the philosophy behind longevity in skincare, let’s discuss your top concerns. Join the CBE Rewards Club for direct access to me. As a member, you’ll receive exclusive skincare tips for your local climate, lifestyle, skin type, and unique skin conditions.
Frequently Asked Questions
What is skin longevity?
Skin longevity refers to daily skincare protocols that promote skin resilience. It goes beyond anti-aging to taking a preventative approach to optimizing skin health, barrier function, and cellular repair.
What is skin health?
Instead of focusing on fine lines and wrinkles, focusing on skin health addresses the structural and functional needs of your skin. This spans the range of collagen banking, moisture retention, skin barrier resilience, cellular turnover, and cellular performance.
Is it ever too late to implement a regenerative skincare protocol?
The sooner you address visible aging, the better. However, it’s never too late to improve skin quality, thicken skin density, restore hydration, lift, smooth, brighten, and slow future aging. I’ve had clients with deep static wrinkles take years off their appearance with tailored actives and treatments. Explore my real-life clients’ Before and After results.
