• Retinol is a form of Vitamin A that prompts cellular turnover for a range of anti-aging benefits.
• How, when, and what type of retinol you apply to your skin decreases skin reactivity, including reddening, drying, and flaking.
• Encapsulated retinols are released slowly and are more gentle, while unencapsulated formulas are released instantly and are harsher.

With the right product and protocol, retinol is a dream for rejuvenating pigmented and mature skin. With the wrong product and protocol, your skin is left red, peeling, and inflamed. As a Master Esthetician of 25 years, I’ve never been a fan of beating your skin into submission. That’s why I created a truly gentle retinol serum that doesn’t sting, burn, or leave your skin dry and flaky.

WHAT IS RETINOL?

Retinol, retinoic acid, retinyl palmitate, Retin-A, retinol esteros, and retinal are all  forms of vitamin A. Vitamin A is a wonder vitamin that prompts cellular turnover. The challenge is that most over-the-counter and prescription products are unencapsulated and too harsh. They dry out your skin and cause peeling. Many translate these symptoms as signs that the vitamin A is “working”, so they continue use. This damages your skin barrier and leads to inflammaging, a form of chronic low-grade inflammation. So, instead of enjoying the benefits below, you degrade your skin quality and accelerate aging. But it doesn’t have to be that way!

Benefits of retinol include:

• Smooths lines and wrinkles
• Fades dark spots
• Thickens thinning skin
• Plumps out skin
• Clarifies skin and pores
• Minimizes pore size
• Reduces oil production
• Reduces acne and acne scars
• Prompts collagen production
• Protects skin from free radicals

WHY ENCAPSULATED RETINOL IS ESTHETICIAN-APPROVED

When retinol is encapsulated, it’s often gentle enough for sensitive skin. Unfortunately, the retinol conversation is centered around concentration and application frequency. These are essential, but the first priority should be whether your product is unencapsulated or encapsulated. Whether it’s over the counter or a prescription gel or cream, most products are unencapsulated.

• Unencapsulated Retinol: This is a “free-floating” form of  vitamin A that sits on top of your skin. Your skin is exposed to full concentration as soon as it’s applied, causing burning or stinging and rapid redness. If your skin is thin, mature, or your skin barrier is already damaged, symptoms are more severe.

• Encapsulated Retinol: This is a form of Vitamin A that is infused in a slow-release carrier system. It penetrates the deeper layers of the skin before it releases, and dissolves slowly over the next few hours. Skin may redden, but the redness clears up by morning. Unless your skin has pre-existing damage, it should not burn, sting, dry out, or peel.

MORE IS NOT BETTER

Retinol takes 3 to 4 months for maximum brightening. Increasing application frequency or concentration won’t accelerate your results. In fact, it can do more damage than good. Whether your retinol is encapsulated or unencapsulated, you must use your product as directed. Or less than directed.

Some OTC retinol serums and creams suggest daily application. Even with unencapsulated products, I suggest applying it 3 days a week in the evenings only. With prescription formulas, your dermatologist may suggest beginning with 1 day a week. If your skin is reactive, it may be damaged, or retinol might not be right for your skin.

THE RETINOL SANDWICH METHOD

The sandwich method refers to layering retinol over at least one other serum, and under a moisturizing cream. An antioxidant-rich serum provides 2 benefits. First, it contains reparative botanicals that support rejuvenation. Second, selecting a serum with calming ingredients immediately soothes vitamin A-activated irritation. Finishing things off with a moisturizing cream maintains hydration and supports barrier repair.

WHY I SUGGEST EVENING-ONLY RETINOL

Many products boast being gentle enough for AM application, but I reserve retinol for PM skincare routines. Here’s why:

• Supports Natural Cellular Repair: Your skin (and body) naturally increases cellular repair while you’re sleeping. So, applying a slow-release formula supports this natural reparative process.

• Barrier-Safe Layering: Retinol products can’t be layered over or under vitamin C, BHA, AHA, or chemical exfoliators. Reserve these ingredients for the morning and apply retinol in the evening.

• Sun Safety: Even if it’s been a few hours since application, vitamin A leaves your skin vulnerable to heat and sun exposure. This increases your risk of sunburn, redness, and inflammation. Also, UV rays can break down retinol, so you won’t reap all the benefits.

TRULY GENTLE RETINOL SERUM

If you’ve tried retinol in the past and it was too harsh, it was likely unencapsulated.  CBE Sleep On It Retinol Serum is encapsulated, so it releases slowly over the next few hours. It’s formulated with soothing, nourishing, and hydrating ingredients, including 2 Types of Hyaluronic Acid, Aloe Vera, Niacinamide, and Plant Stem Cells. Even though it contains the highest OTC concentration, your skin drinks it in without dryness or irritation. 

Expect your skin to redden, but it shouldn’t sting or burn. The redness will fade by morning. I have sensitive skin, and this retinol serum is gentle enough that I worked my way from 3 nights a week to every night.

5 Step Gentle Retinol Skincare Routine

STEP 1: GENTLE CLEANSER

Single or double cleanse with an ultra-gentle cleanser, such as  CBE Just Say Ahh. Just cleanse, don’t use a chemical or granular exfoliator before applying retinol.

STEP 2: HYDRATING AND NOURISHING SERUM

Apply at least 1 serum formulated with hydrating and antioxidant-rich ingredients. I suggest 2 layers of  CBE 4D Quench Hyaluronic Serum or 1 layer of  Dr. Esthé Azulene Relief Ampoule.

STEP 3: RETINOL SERUM

Let the serums above sink in, which will take about 5 minutes. Apply a pea-sized amount of  CBE Sleep On It Retinol Serum to your fingertips. Rub your fingertips together, and glide over your face, avoiding your eyes.

This ultra-gentle retinol sinks into the deep layers, taking the active ingredients from your base serums with it. Apply 3 days a week. If your skin shows zero signs of irritation, gradually increase to nightly application. 

Pro Tip: Sleep On It Is Neck-Safe Retinol!

Unlike most retinols, this formula is gentle enough to apply to the delicate skin on your neck. Layer a serum first, and apply a second pea-sized amount to your neck. Layer a moisturizing cream on top.

STEP 4: MOISTURIZING CREAM

Lock in moisture with  CBE Renew + Hydrate Multi-Action Moisturizer. This formula contains a Bioengineered Anti-Aging Complex that’s clinically proven to boost skin firmness in 12 weeks. It contains Vegan Swiss Apple Stem Cell Extract, Squalene, and a Duo of Peptides to turn back the clock.

Apply twice daily to replenish fragile skin, boost skin resilience, repair barrier function, lift, and firm.

STEP 5: AM SUNSCREEN

Retinol increases sun sensitivity, so AM sunscreen is essential. Few things age your skin more than UV rays. Without daily sunscreen, you’ll undo your brightening and increase your sunburn risk. Follow a similar AM skincare routine as above, minus the retinol layer, finishing with an  SPF 50 Sunscreen.

Pro Tip: Accelerate Skin Brightening

To accelerate skin brightening, apply  CBE Triple C + Gold Serum in the mornings. This luxurious formulation isn’t your average Vitamin C. It’s formulated with Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, an ultra-gentle form of Vitamin C. It works harmoniously with Gold to fade dark spots and brighten dull skin, while firming and smoothing your skin. It also delivers an instant glow!

LET’S DISCUSS YOUR SKINCARE JOURNEY

All of that said, retinol serum might not be what your skin needs. Or you may need to heal your skin barrier before adding retinol to your skincare routine. If you want to learn more about tailoring your skincare journey as your skin matures, or which home care devices are right for you, consider joining the CBE Rewards Club. As a member, you’ll receive $10 in cash rewards each month, 10% off CBE Botanicals products, and exclusive BOGO events, flash sales, contests, and prizes. Membership includes access to the Rewards Club Lounge, where you can ask me your most pressing skincare questions!

Frequently Asked Questions

Is there a retinol for sensitive skin?

Encapsulated retinol is the best option if you have sensitive skin or rosacea. Encapsulated formulas release slowly over several hours, all but eliminating irritation. If your barrier is damaged, restore your barrier before adding retinol to your weekly routine.

What is “low and slow” retinol application?

“Low and slow” refers to starting with a low concentration of retinol 1 to 3 days a week. When using an encapsulated retinol, the concentration is of less concern, but I still suggest applying only in the evenings, 3 days a week. If your skin isn’t dry or flakey, gradually increase frequency and concentration. Always use retinol as directed, and never directly before or after Vitamin C, chemical exfoliators, or mechanical exfoliators.

Can I apply retinol to my eyes and neck?

Do not apply retinol to the eye area. Most retinol is too harsh for the skin on the neck. CBE Sleep On It Retinol Serum  is gentle enough that most clients can apply it to their face and neck.

Can I use vitamin C with retinol?

Yes, but you must not apply them at the same time. Apply Vitamin C serum in the morning, and apply gentle retinol serum at night. Or apply Vitamin C oil on the evenings you don’t apply retinol. I don’t suggest any type of face oil in the morning as the oil degrades your sunscreen.

How long before I see results from retinol?

Expect to see smooth texture and brighter skin within the first 6 weeks, with maximum brightening and rejuvenation at 4 months. If your skin is dry, flakey, or red, you may need to reduce frequency, pause application, or find a less reactive solution. Be mindful that retinol isn’t right for everyone’s skin journey.

Can I apply retinol in the morning?

Some retinol formulas are designed for AM or PM use, but as a Master Esthetician, I only suggest PM application. Retinol makes your skin photo-reactive, so it is more sensitive to the sun, increasing your chances of sunburn. UV rays also degrade retinol, so you won’t reap its benefits.